Friday, December 7, 2007

White Elephant

I'm dreaming tonight,
Of a place I know,
Even more than I usually do...
And although I know,
It's a long way home,
I promise you -

I'll be home for Christmas...
- IN 1 WEEK!

Yeah, the count down begins.
Which is strange, now that it's here. I suppose that I didn't think about how much time we had left until we hit the 3 week mark and people started counting, But then, my counter got stuck at 3 weeks, and it seemed like it would just always be that awful 3 week interval...
So here we are, with a week. And it's weird.

Guissepe is slowly building us a show.
I have no doubt.
- It's all there.
You know, in his head...

But really, I'm not worried about it.


I'm more concerned about getting as many different Little Things from the Little Thing Machines as I can.
(there are worse addictions, kids)

And today I'm going into Cortona to have lunch at this restaurant someone's teacher told her about. Then I'll finish my Capitan Magnificent mask that's currently drying downstairs.
And maybe then I'll pack.

Hunh.
It is strange to think...

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

What I'm Doing INSTEAD Of the Wine Tasting

I finished my philosophy paper!
Which is great. Because that shit was seriously putting the damper on my existence here at the villa.
- By I mean I wrote it in, like, 2 or 3 days, and I literally care so little about it that I felt bad staying up to work on it, even though I had nothing of the actual 6 - 10 page paper written 2 days before it's due.
And, as I keep reminding myself,
MY GRADES DON'T TRANSFER!

HOOha.

Now I can get back to my first love - mask making.
I finished my Zanni. - Without realizing until I was polishing off the last of the wax that his nose just looks like a penis.
Seriously. No idea.

Aside from that, I did a little shopping this weekend.
You know, hopped the train to Firenze and got everything I wanted in, like a half hour.
I also bought myself a mug.
Because - I LIKE mugs.
...alot.

And this one was so cute.
I saw it in the chocolate store. It is blue with stars, and was filled with Baci* (*this means kisses in Italian. Have I told you this before? Probably. It's my new favorite Italian word. Suck it up. If you're good, maybe I'll bring you some Baci.), and it says 'Perche parlare? Tutto l'amore se dice in un bacio.' Which means, roughly, 'Why speak? The entirety of love is spoken in a single kiss'. I thought - this would be such a cute present! -but, I don't have anyone to give it to... And I don't have anyone to receive it from...
So I bought it for myself.
Good purchase.


And now I am relaxing in the last 15 minutes before I go stuff myself again in the Mensa. I am done with final [sic.], and finished with my first day of "Ensemble" with Guissepe. We've already started working with our theme for our final project, namely, Love. Everyone had to contribute one phrase about love to the group's pool of text.


- And now, before I head off, here's my paper. Yes it's very long. No, it's not very good. Why am I putting it up? Cause it's my fucking blog, and I can post what I want!
(I strongly suspect that I simply didn't bother to explain myself and purposefully inserted philosophical/academic jargon to confuse my reader and camouflage this fact. Entertain yourself, perhaps, by drinking every time you notice a hole in the logic of the argument that I skip over.)


Spectacle As Consciousness

Consciousness, long held as an “asylum ignorantiae for all philosophical constructs…. the place where all unresolved problems, all objectively irreducible residues are stored away” , is nonetheless, irrefutably essential to our current interactions with the world around us. More than simply using, or even depending on the sign systems we have, as humans, created in order to share our existences, consciousness is the most omnipresent of sign systems. Evolving, as it has, directly from the interactions between individuals and their world, consciousness both enables and necessitates understanding as such, since without these relationships, signs would be meaningless and unnecessary. As, however, human society fragmented, and man began to experience a collective (yet individual) alienation from the world around him, the consciousness produced in these altering relationships changed too. Consciousness became estranged from dialogue, it became a passive transmission of information from the world to the individual, and the focal point of this change is the Spectacle, as described by Guy Debord. Everything that man produces became for the purpose of the spectacle, and therefore everything that man consumes became spectacle as well, until finally, it is the spectacle that mediates all social and individual interactions, and it is the spectacle through which we analyze and understand. In the current, advanced state of cultural isolation, “the phenomenon of separation is part and parcel of the unity of the world”. Spectacle is the consciousness of the modern age.

Man, in his societies, has not evolved a solitary existence; he is constantly dependant on his ability to live with and be aided by those around him. This shared existence, in turn, is dependent on man’s ability to combine his efforts with another, which is effective only when two individuals can be sure to be dealing with the same experience. Given that it is impossible for two individuals to share the exact same experience even if they are standing side by side, sensorially perceiving the same natural phenomena, man developed systems of signs so as to compare and share experiences with one another. He developed a common ground, a world in which all are capable of sharing.

Simply put, a sign is anything that stands for something other than itself. A tree is a just a tree, contained and present in its existence, until other meanings are ascribed to it. Then, suddenly, this tree becomes a Christmas Tree, and serves to bring to mind winter, family, presents, etc. Through the creation of sign systems, man gains the ability to share his experience of life with another, and in this way to effectively live with and not just in proximity to other humans. Sign systems are, therefore, essential to our humanity as it has evolved, and since they are the medium through which communication is possible, an examination of a culture’s sign systems is crucial in understanding the workings of that culture in as much as it even is a culture. Karl Marx understood this and felt it incumbent upon him to deal, therefore, with our most pervasive system of signifiers, the means through which all interaction is made possible (namely language), before any progress could be made in the dissection of social interaction.

From even a cursory examination, the pervasiveness of language must be unmistakable. As a signifier which stands for nothing other than itself (having no true existence outside of signification), Language, and that all important base unit, the Word, are the epitome of sign systems. Language was created expressly to express, it is a product of our social needs and interactions, “language is practical consciousness that exists also for other men, and for that reason alone it really exists for me personally as well”. Without our interactions with other humans, we would have no use for language (or for any sign system). We would simply perceive the world around us individually, and signs would not exist. However, effective interaction depends on the ability to share the contents of one consciousness with another, and this depends on the existence of a sign system.

To take this a step further, not only is the sign system a product necessitated by social interaction, but so is consciousness – that which is considered to be the most individual of features. Marx states that “consciousness is… from the very beginning a social product, and remains so as long as men exist at all”. Unfortunately, what exactly consciousness is, Marx never quite finds his way to explaining any more concretely then in terms that suggest that old, mystic asylum ignorantiae.
This question is, therefore, taken up by V. N. Volosinov in his essay “Marxism and the Philosophy of Language”, wherein he posits that “consciousness itself can arise and become a viable fact only in the material embodiment of signs”. That is to say that, consciousness is not something which takes on signs as a language, some mysterious soul of the human intellect to which signs are a tool, but rather that consciousness is itself merely a tool, a sign system, created in the relation of one human to another. In Volosinov’s words, “understanding is a response to a sign with signs”. This is a compelling explanation when we consider both the form and function of consciousness; the former being entirely composed of signs, and the latter being the management of these signs so as to be able to rearrange and analyze these parts of experience, thereby gaining the ability to analyze and rearrange our actual experience.

The problem with this explanation arises when we consider that foggy area of consciousness often called Intuition. To see where Volosinov’s argument needs clarification, we must start by examining the birth of consciousness in man as Marx did, for it cannot be fully explained as a sign system which evolves from the interaction between two individuals. To begin with, there is Perception – the raw, unprocessed, sensory input. This is the information we receive from our senses, which it is possible (or, at least was possible, at some point, for prehistoric man) to receive passively, without connecting it to a past experience, or including a projection of it in his future. In order to survive, however, man, like the animals, must develop some way of processing the data he receives, and some way to learn, to connect the tree he sees in front of him to the tree he saw in front of him yesterday and the day before, so that he is able to eat things which will not poison him, to avoid animals which might do him harm.

When man can identify that one instance of shape and color and smell and feel is in fact a tree, and, more then that, that a certain tree is of a similar type as one he has seen somewhere else, and that some types of trees provide food, while others do not; when he becomes capable, in short, of learning, he must be said at some level to have started the arduous process of analysis of the world around him. Marx himself calls this “animal consciousness of nature”, and describes it as a “consciousness concerning the immediate sensuous environment and consciousness concerning the limited connection with other persons and things outside the individual”. Volosinov argues that consciousness is the all-important form of our analysis, but at the same time, he insists, this is a consciousness which has arisen from interaction between man and man, not man and nature. Volosinov asserts that “signs emerge, after all, only in the interaction between one individual consciousness and another”, that “consciousness cannot be derived directly from nature”, and so we find a small hole here, in the beginning of man’s ordering of perception, but before the start of his serious dependence on other men. In short, that oft debated realm under whose purview falls the “consciousness” of animals, which is not, by either Volosinov’s or Marx’s standards, true consciousness. Still, it is an awareness, and even, undeniably, some primitive analysis of the world; for how else did we make the jump from unprocessed sensory input to an organization of sense data which can be recognized as something particular outside of the self which needs to be shared with another individual?

The point of these particular arguments, I believe it is safe to assume, is to stress that consciousness is not something that we possess inherently, but which, rather, we evolve in the course of our social interactions. As the stored energy in the sign systems of previous generations changes each successive generation of man, so too is the interaction between one generation and another changed, and as interaction evolves, along with it evolves consciousness.

What is important enough about this point to justify semantic quibbling, is that consciousness evolves in a relationship, although not necessarily a relation between one person and another. The relevance of my critique lies in the fact that, should we accept a definition of consciousness which is born of any relation, and not simply that between two humans, it paves the way for the idea of the evolution of consciousness in a society where the “primordial unity”, the relationships between the various members, has crumbled. When coupled with Volosinov’s point that consciousness is also something that evolves, it allows us to assess what consciousness has become now, in an age which is characterized by fragmentation and fractilization. Man, who’s very existence, and the entirety of his evolutionary tract have been based on creating a relationship with those around him, has become alienated from his world. As Eric Fromm points out, “alienation as we find it in modern society is almost total; it pervades the relationship of man to his work, to the things he consumes, to the state, to his fellow man, and to himself”. Alienation has changed places with the unity that was once one of the defining characteristics of man.

How then, could consciousness have gone unchanged?
As all of man’s relationships have become indirect (his relation to what he produces, what he consumes, to his desires, to his body, to those around him, to, in fact, his very life) the unity of his society has deteriorated. Society has become fragmented. The very process of communication, of analysis and dialogue, has taken from man the unity of his individual life. In an effort to unite with his fellows, he subjects himself to the rule of abstract concepts like Time and Nation, he collects the experiences of others – not just as the experiences of others, but as though they were his own experiences. His alienation blinds him to the difference between his own reality and the reality being pressed upon him by the constant influx of signs, and he becomes separated from himself as he actually exists, in search of the self he believes that he can create from the experiences around him.

At the same time, in an attempt to counteract this, man “shares” more of himself, so as to reaffirm his reality by relating it to others. Language, and therefore consciousness, change to express this – all men are experiencing this isolation at the same time, and since they are all talking about it, a strange new society starts to take shape, a society that collectively experiences individual isolation. Consciousness now, evolves from the relationship between man and object, not man and man, for man believes himself to be isolated. Objects have long been the mediators between men if we consider, as Volosinov does, that “signs are also particular, material things”, but the signs through which men communicated before (like language, ritual, and art) were created for the express purpose of communicating between two individuals, and along with being specific signifiers for some experience or emotion, they signify a knowing exchange between two people. Today, the objects with which we interact preserve the illusion of alienation, thus furthering its reality – “it is the sun that never sets on modern passivity”. Somewhere between sign and commodity, Debord calls these modern phenomena Spectacles, and instead of engendering dialogue, the Spectacle allows us to “passively” receive.

If we take for truth the definition of consciousness posed by Marx and Volosinov (namely that consciousness is that which evolves in the “interindividual territory” as a means of processing the societal signs) then it is no great leap to posit that Spectacle had not only become the language of our isolation, but the very consciousness through which we perceive and interact with the world around us. After all, “the spectacle is not a collection of images; rather it is a social relationship between people that is mediated by images” – a relationship between the individual and his world made possible by some sort of relationship and the use of signs. In further agreement, Debord describes spectacle as something which is “not… added to the real world”, but “the very heart of society’s unreality”, occupying, as it were, the very same throne upon which consciousness sits.

Our alienation complete, we have managed to remove ourselves even from our own inner thought, putting it into an outward show from which, by the aid of mechanical reproduction, we then remove ourselves before it even reaches its intended audience, and that same audience, free of the presence of the being from whom the spectacle originated, has been deceived into thinking that they can receive passively the meaning contained therein. Our language, our ideas, are altered not by interaction with other men, but by the imposed tyranny of the spectacle, and man remains blissfully unaware of the disconnect.

- you actually read to the end? Or did you just skip down? Ah, well, either way... here's your prize: my phrase from class.
'a heart doesn't break, it implodes'

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

I'm Dreaming Of A...

...whole plate full of red delicious apples with Smucker's Natural Peanut Butter with Honey.

What?
You thought I was going to say White Christmas?
Those are hardly realistic expectations - thinking that my subconscious should obey the commercialized, sugar sweet sentiments peddled by a bygone era's crooners on "Holiday" LPs that only serve to sacredize the consumerism of a capitalist, "Christian" culture.

- I mean, if you want to be strictly accurate about it, I'm dreaming about slapping people who deserve it and then being punished for doing what I felt that I had been instructed to do. (No mystery there, Scott.)



But back to apples.

On Thanksgiving we went around in a circle and listed the first thing we wanted to eat when we got home. I said a whole jar of Smucker's Natural PB w/ H, and a nice soft pint of Eddy's Sugarfree Mint Chocochip icecream. And some Oreos.
But then we went out for pizza at the pizza and beer place (called O' Scuglizzo? I even LOOKED this time! Damn it! Why can't we remember?) and I decided that, embarrassing as it is, what I want is a double cheese pizza from Zeppe's, with a dozen garlic wings and a 2 liter of Diet Coke. (I know - I'm not even missing NY pizza, I'm missing OHIO pizza...)
And then at lunch I had a red apple with a little of Robert's peanut butter, and I thought - the day when I can sit down and have as much peanut butter as I want will be a happy one. I am going to buy 3 jars. Not because I want to eat that much - I don't even want more then a few spoonfuls - I just want to line them up and look at them while I eat so that I don't feel like I have to ration it out.

What point do we take from all of this?
I don't actually miss food from home.
(The food here is fantastic and fresh, and prepared hot for us twice a day.)
I miss home.


Let's face it, I checked out.
I mean, I tried really hard. You have to give me that - I was motivated for 3 for most of this whole damn semester - but I'm burnt out. I got nothing. And I just don't care.
Too bad about that whole having 3 more weeks thing... That sucks.

And no booze to drink away the remaining hours... I raise my glass (of water) to Good Life Decisions! (Although, I've already decided that I will drink the last weekend, and at this point, I'm looking at bottles of beer in the gelateria and thinking - if I can make it a month, that's something...)



I'll be home for Christmas, You can plan on me. Please have snow and mistletoe, And presents 'neath the tree...
(and Smucker's Natural PB w/ Honey)

Friday, November 23, 2007

I Feel It In My Fingers...

There comes a day, a day we eagerly await each and every fall, when suddenly, the world looks a bit - merrier. It's a day of joviality, a day of liberation, a day when siblings unite, perhaps for the first time, in a common purpose... To annoy the fuck out of anyone in hearing distance with as many kitschy Christmas jingles as they can remember.
We call this day First-Official-Christmas-Song Day.
Oh, and how we love it.

That's right, folks, dust off the old family vinyls of Bing and Burl, break out the egg nog, and mix liberally with a nice medium bodied rum - you're gonna need it.

My first memory of First-Official-Christmas-Song Day comes from a few years ago, back in the days when my brother and I still argued about the front seat of the family car. We were driving back from Wooster, chock full of turkey and newly minted family memories. I had my legs propped on the dashboard, warming my toes against the heater while my mother filled the car with gas. From somewhere in the back seat, I heard a squeak. I readied myself to drop the seat back into a quick recline, catching whoever was sitting behind me in a vice-like grip between the floor and the maroon upholstery of the back seat when something in the noise made me pause.
"Is it time?" my little brother asked again.

Is It Time. The words sent a chorus of silver bells ringing through my thoughts.
Yes. I thought. It is Time...

By the time my mother got back into the car, we were a 6 or 7 swimming swans into the 12 days of Christmas, and arguing about what came next. This was a recurring problem. Past 7, things get murky. One more leaping lord or dancing lady didn't seem to make all that much difference. Fortunately, this argument was easily resolved by consulting The Source. The Source was a decorative candle stashed somewhere amongst the faux pine wreaths and the plastic holly in our attic on which was inscribed, in miniature, cylindrical perfection, 12 tiny tableaux which depict the various gifts referred to in the song. The candle was always the first decoration to be put out, along with the cotton advent calendar we used to hang on the hallway wall before we lost most of the stuffed tree ornaments.
Hot damn we loved that song...

And then of course there were those hilarious grammar school classics - All I Want For Christmas Is My Two Front Teeth... I Saw Mommy Kissing Santa Claus... The Chipmunk Song...
Grandma Got Run-over By A Reindeer...
and the ever popular, altered versions of Jingle Bells and Rudolph I'm sure we all still laugh at every time we hear them.
I was always partial to Elvis, so Blue Christmas was in my repertoire practically before I could crawl.
- Jingle Bell Rock was such a stunning piece of musicality that I considered it above the Black Friday to Christmas restrictions placed on other such holiday hits.


And now?
Ah heck, I still can't get enough of 'em!
My holiday play list (which lays dormant for roughly 230 (emotionally) frozen days a year) is 5 hours long and soaks up 285.6 MB on my hard-drive.
I have five versions of White Christmas. (another perennial favorite from the days when a green Christmas seemed just as likely to be a sign of impending apocalypse) And four different Jingle Bells. I don't even LIKE Jingle Bells. Although, to be fair, who does?

This is my absolute favorite way to study for finals or write soul-killing term papers. Curled up in my bed with a candy cane and a couple hours of aural pleasure on my iTunes I can almost forget about years that stress and lack of sleep are slowly taking off my life.

Awww, Christmas...


Given that its the season of giving, I will post here, absolutely free, my top 12 list (all available now on iTunes for your consumptive pleasure):


All I Want For Christmas Is You - Olivia Olson
The Chipmunk Song - The Chipmonks
Silver Bells - Bing Crosby
Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas - Rockapella
Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer - the Temptations
Blue Christmas - Elvis Presley
Santa Baby - Eartha Kit
The Christmas Song - Mel Torme
Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow! - Ella Fitzgerald
This Christmas - Donny Hathaway
Donna & Blitzen - Badly Drawn Boy
Please Come Home For Christmas - The Eagles


So please -
frost the sugar cookies,
bust out the grog,
and have yourself a very, merry, Christmas season.

Thursday, November 22, 2007

Turkey Day

I am thankful for
the people I love

Friday, November 16, 2007

Month Old Candy Corn








There's nothing like turning 21 on October 31st in a country that doesn't celebrate either 21 or Halloween.
Luckily, some people still remember.
Not-so-luckily, the Italian Postal Service is out to get me.

I got the first one of my Birthday care packages today. More then a month after it was mailed.
I've already eaten 90 percent of the sweets contained therein.
I mean - the candy corn wasn't stale at all.
The cookie was a little stale. (just a little)
And the Halloween candy was perfectly fine, as one might expect.

I say, the sugar rush was exactly what I needed to kick it up for these last 10 hours of the week.
(that's clowning until 6, Cabaret until 7:30, dinner until 8:30, and Gianni's Tarentella class until 11ish)
- especially since I stopped putting honey in my tea. It actually made it too good. I was done with the glass before I'd even gotten back to the table. It was also the largest contributer to the 5 or 6 cup a day situation that, I think, was really dragging me down.
I hurt everywhere.
Clowning, is painful.
Physically and emotionally.

We played a "game" last night with plastic water bottles.
Here's how you play:

You (as your clown) stand on the far side of the room, between the wall and a long, thick rope that's stretched across the room about 5 feet in. The others stand at the other end of the room. You, Start. Doing what, you ask? Doing anything and everything you can think of, and several things you can not. If you are funny, they might laugh. if you are not, they start to advance. When they get to the rope, they stop again. Now, here's where it get fun. If you are still not doing anything interesting, they count. They count to 3. They give you a last chance. Do you know what they give you if you, by some miracle, manage to save your self before they hit 3? You get another 3. To do something completely different, but always to the same purpose. Eventually, you cannot do anything else. Then, they cross the rope. With their water bottles (you knew they had to come in somewhere) and Kill you. I'm not joking. If this were the bottle game, and you were telling me this story, I would be walking towards you. With a water bottle upraised.
Oh by the way,
You then repeat the game.
I had to go 5 or 6 times, because, here's something we found out about me,
I can't be funny under pressure.
The closer they got, the less funny I became.

Do you know what I finally did to get myself out of the loop?
I sang.
Cats.

...I think they just got fed up and let me go.


My clown, by the way, is a boozy floozy named Spritz (that's short for Spritzer), with an Eastern European accent of questionable origin, an over-sized trench coat, and a pair of lime green heels that are two sizes too large. She suffers (is that really the word?) from a constant state of inebriation. Ironic, really, given my current state of sobriety. Or perhaps not. The clown comes from inside you - it's the part of you emerges behind the world's smallest mask... (think about it. it'll hit you.)

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Take Me The Way I Am

You can eat grapes off the vine,
but NOT olives off the tree.

You can speak english to Micchela
but Italian only with the clowns.

You can get out at 12:30,
but you can't go to lunch until 1.

You can scheme all you want,
but you can't dance the Manfrina without changing partners.

And no matter how you prepare yourself,
you can never guess which direction will be left when next you look.

Pronto?

Sunday, November 11, 2007

I Met An Old Man


There's a man who's out every morning with his dog.
(The dog, I later learned, goes by Cici)
One day he stopped me. - I'll bring you a book, he said.
True to his word, the next day he handed me a slim volume of Italian verse called Volo Libero.

The bio on the back describes the author as a man born in Arezzo in 1935, who moved back in his later years to focus on writing.

I suspect,
That I met the author.

(I am supposed to meet him again today at 6pm, so that he can give me another book.)



Zoe came up on Friday. She made it through the train strike (which, apparently is common here), and we walked through the rising storm into town, where we purchased some ridiculous sum in groceries at Eurospar.
It's what we do.


Mostly we relaxed, since I always have the best beds. We also took a long walk through the countryside and discussed the books we're going to write. My projects include A History of Tears, and a Dictionary of words to disambiguate "Love".
I'll let you know when they're ready for publication.

Until then -
Have a pear.
(God they're good)

Tuesday, November 6, 2007

Darjeeling Green


I am full of eggplant parmesan and honeyed tea.
It's a delicious combination.



I don't understand this public outcry over my temporary sobriety.
- Yo Peeps
I know my witty write-ups of the local liquor have become your lifeblood,
but here's news if you've never met me:
I have a problem with Moderation.
- Just, as a concept. As an abstract. Fuck! As applicable in ANY aspect of my life.-
(and by problem, I mean, I'm physically incapable of being moderate)

So this idea I have to take care of my body -
you know, Sleep more, Eat balanced meals, Not work myself until I'm totally exhausted every day -
This is a good idea. A Good Life Decision.
(a GLD if you will. - Which you will.)


SO -
For the moment. My "glasses" will contain tea.
I'm up to like, at least 3 (if not 5) a day.
(what did I JUST say about moderation?)



Class with our new Commedia teacher - Marcello - is trucking along. He looks like a little Italian Teddy bear, and speaks entirely in l'Italiano. I am working through Capitano and masked-Columbina. So much fun! My group this afternoon will present our version of Twelfth Night with 3 Commedia characters called Fort Night. We are up to 7 hours a day of classes, but the challenge of trying to put up skits which are both technically correct in the mask work and commedia work, and not just comprehensible, but funny in 2 languages, is an interesting one. And Friday I will learn to dance the Tarantella with Gianni. (Oooooh. I can't even wait! Gianni! *sigh*)

Now,
I got my camera finally. So I will start posting some pics. I took a whole bunch while I went for my morning run yesterday. Keep checking in to SEE what I've been talking about all this time.

Saturday, November 3, 2007

The Big Two-One!

I'm not drinking again until I come home.



please. let. die.

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Yamas! (or: Why I'll Never Drink Ouzo Again)

Oh what is there to say?

I saw lighting strike off the top of the acropolis,
I met a Greek man named Dimitri who's besotted with me the night we played a drinking game with the owner of the bar and I ended up tending bar while wearing a Greek flag like a cape.

Lisbon was just as beautiful as I imagined it would be,
and I was the most lonely I have been in a long time.
I was also anxious the entire time I was there
Because a 20 year old woman cannot travel by herself,
Without being made to feel dirty and vulnerable and like a piece of meat.

And London was London.
Zoe took me to a 15th century farmhouse in the English countryside.
I ate fish and chips and beer with Catherine before seeing Hot House at the National theater.
I came home with 4 bags of Pancakes

And it took me nearly 21 hours to get from my bed in London to my bed n Italy.
Because I got on the wrong express train, and found myself 6 hours from home at 9 on a Sunday night,
With trains no longer running to my town.


I don't want to travel by myself ever again.
There' just no reason.

(and in 57 minutes, I will turn 21)
((go figure))

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Jug Wine, Oh Jug Wine!

Oh Jug Wine... You will always hold a special place in my heart.

My first encounter with a Jug Wine, was, of course, the Carlo Rossi Rose wine. A sweet young thing, 'tis. Barely even alcoholic... Well, she has a cousin, my friends! A robust, Italian cousin named Sovini Rosso Costiera. This red Vino da Tavola is "obtained from several grapes with a pleasant dry and sapid flavour", and, like any true lady, is loathe to reveal her age. Ah yes, five liters of a thin red liquid that tastes like dirty water and cuts a fine figure in her thick glass, with the tiny, useless handle hanging uselessly as costume jewelry around the neck of this full figured woman.

And to think I hiked 20 minutes up hill to pick her up...
But I'm smarter than I look. Yes, yes - you see, my intentions were not entirely honorable. No, indeed. Because what I intend to do, is pass her around the table, like the whore she is, loosening tongues, and making me plenty of new friends, until she's all used up and ready to be filled up with something decent at the Count's winery for 3 euros!


Although, until that time comes, perhaps I ought to lay off the booze, because it would seem that I'm getting sick. Yes, I woke up this morning from unsettling dreams about baseball stadiums, old friends, and a boy named Damien whose namesake, I suspect, is Damien Rice (sorry Bryan), feeling worse then when I fell asleep. And I didn't go running. - Because Kevin says I'm too intense. So fine.

(alight, those weren't his exact words. what he sad was more like "you're very INTENSE - but I won't say anything more about that...")

I am too intense, aren't I?
I get that all the time.

fine.
okay.
i'll stop.

Saturday, October 13, 2007

TOSO Fragolino Rosso ~ Bevanda Aromatizzata (A Base di Vino)


This is another way of saying Sweet, 9.5% alcohol by volume, Strawberry Champaign.
It was not, bad.
It was also not great.
Although, when mixed at a rate somewhat higher than the standard 2 - 1 champaign to succo di pesca Bellini recipe, it was... you know, sweet and red, and extremely easy to drink.

It was better than the Sante Bucciarelli Vino Liquoroso.
To be fair, I bought that one because it came in a bottle that looked like a bunch of grapes.
It does have a higher alcohol content (16%) and yet tastes almost nothing like the Vin Santos it's emulating. I mean, same idea, but it is watery where a true Vin Santos has that carmely burnt sugar tang.

***WARNING***
Don't buy alcohol because of the bottle it comes in.

We also ended up with a sweet 6.5% alcohol champaign that Ben bought for us at the gelateria because Danny wanted to go to a wine bar but didn't want to spend alot of dough.

***WARNING***
Don't buy cheap champaign at an icecream shop.
(stick to the profiterole gelato from Il Paradiso - which I finally got last night, because I had this feeling that it closed at 10:30, and it was 10:20, so Ben and Danny agreed to run on my suspicions.
We got there just in time.
- Running for gelato is really satisfying.)


And so ends another week here at the Accademia.
One week to go til fall break.
((Two and a half until my birthday))
(((- you know, in case you wanted to get me something. Or whatever)))
((((Not that my parents should think this is for them - because they actually did send me something, apparently. I was speaking more to the masses. Because I know they would feel awful if they forgot.))))


This week we did Pantalone and Zanni (the servant from Bergamo). I had a bunch of really awkward and uncomfortable failures, and one skit at the end that went pretty good, although she told us it went on too long, and I know that was totally my fault. I held us up because I wouldn't give Pantalone the coin. Ah well, you win some, you lose some. It's fantastic already to see people dissappear into the masks - to watch them on stage and not see the actor, but only the character. I laugh all of the time, which is wonderful, and, I dare say, would probably put me in a better mood if I weren't so exhausted from the work we do on the stances and movements of the Masks. Zanni, permantly bent over from a life of carrying heavy boxes on his back, is not easy to sustain...

Well, I don't have any food. And even though I went to bed at 2:30am, my body and my alarm both decided that I should keep my usual 7:30 am wake up. So I fucked around on Wikipedia for a while (I found out that my mask I bought is one of the 3 traditional carnival masks, called a Moretta, but the least often seen because it is impossible to eat or drink while wearing it, not being equipped with a mouth hole of any sort, and conforming to the face all the way around. Actually, originally, they were designed for french women to wear while visiting the convent, and were held on the face not with ribbon stays, but with a button on the inside of the mask where one's mouth would be, which was held between the woman's teeth, thus preventing the wearer from speaking. Apparently, they quickly became popular because they "accentuated feminine features".
... Like silence?
It's a black mask with two eye holes and a sort of ridge in the center that looks a bit like a turned up nose!

I mean, I bought it, didn't I?
fuck.

L.B.'s mask, though, is a Bauta, which was the favored mask not just for Carnevale, but all year long for privacy on secret (and dangereus?) liaisons, as it's strongly jutting chin line allows the wearer to eat and drink with out removing it. It is worn by both men and women, with a black drapey, cape-y sort of thing, and a tricorn hat. Tipically, the mask was white, although black was also used.




I have to walk into town to buy groceries.
My roommate just got up.
It's 1:40pm here.
That means I've been up for 6 1/2 hours. I've caught up on my journal, gone for a run, done Bryan's workout on the roof of the Teatrino roof, taken a shower, written another blog, checked to see who's changed their facebook picture, become, as I've just demonstrated, an authority on Carnivale masks, and, though I haven't mentioned anything about it yet, on the Nobel Prize for Literature to boot - the most recent recipient of which, by the way, was Doris Lessing, a British author I hadn't known anyone cared two bits for until today.

...
or maybe I'll have some water, read my Rum book, and take a nap...


I guess we'll just,
see.

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Poggio Ulivelo 2004: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Is it wrong to drink every night?
Is it wrong to look forward to meals so?
No?
What's that you say?
...
When in Rome?

Ah... Si. Si si si.

So this wine, my purchase from the winery, is not bad. It's a 2004, which is a good year, remember, and has a fresh tartness to it. The bouquet is light, and almost... pine scented. Not too alcoholic to the nose like some of these other wines. The color is a bit like stage blood - a sort of purpled brick-red.

...
We started commedia today, with our new teacher, Paola.
Our first character was Pantalone, the miserly old patriarch, father of the female inamorata, obsessed with sex and money. His back is straight, knees bent slightly, feet in first, chin thrust forward. He leads with his pointed nose and takes tiny steps forward. When he turns, his head turns first, and then the whole rest of the body turns. He dances with one bent leg at a time. (The way it should be.)

Okay, time to see what Riccardo has made for us tonight...

Ah, Venice...

Ah - Venice! City of Poor Life Decisions...
...my face hurts.

- Probably because someone punched me there...

Ah. Venice.


Friday I spent a lot of time on the bus. Around noon we took an incredibly boring tour of an incredibly old theater in Vicenza, whose one distinguishing feature was a fairly spectacularly textbookular example of scenic perspective on a proscenium stage and the fact that the fist people to see a play their in 200 years after it's opening were apparently a group of Japanese missionaries who had come to see the Pope. Vicenza was their second stop. I kid you not.
... I had a great sandwich. Trocchiolo. That seems to me turkey sandwich. And some gelato that was terrible, but which fact I didn't realize until I I was mostly finished eating it, and so thoroughly enjoyed.
Then we met the Mask-Maker, Renzo in his atelier outside the city. This highly anticipated stop turned out to be rather a two hour bust. However, he gave the entire thing in Italian (which Kevin translated some of), but I understood at least 90% of what he said. Pretty good considering a month ago I didn't speak Italian at all. His work was beautiful, but in the end, I decided that it would be inappropriate for me to ask him to make me a mask at this point. I mean, it would be like ordering custom ice-skates before you'd ever stepped onto the ice. There is a point at which it isn't even a question of decadence, it's simply inappropriate.

Venice itself, now that they've outlawed cars and turned it completely into one giant tourist trap, did seem cleaner then my last recollection of it. We arrived in the fog, through which we immediately set metaphorical sail in Vaporetti (the water buses) and then lost ourselves in on the way to the hostel. Dory insists that maps are not helpful in Venice, with which I disagree, since I pulled mine out and corrected our course. Our dorm room at the hostel looked a bit like a refugee shelter, but the place was clean and safe and had great free breakfasts (it's called the CSD Foresteria Valdese, book in advance or they won't have rooms), and there was, directly across the street, a store where an old man filled up used 2 liter water bottles with various kinds of wine for 2-3 euros a piece. I drank about 2/3 of a bottle of his prosecco Saturday night. It was, in fact, during the first bottle, standing on a bridge outside the hostel with Danny and Ben, singing to passing tourists in gondolas, that we decided that we should each make at least one PLD that night...

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Because Friday night, I put on a hoochy skirt and heels and a couple of us went to the jazz club Danny had found near the Rialto bridge. There were 3 guys and 3 girls, so we sat by gender and pretended we were on a bad prom date. I had a strawberry margarita (on the rocks. always on the rocks if you have the option) and a caipirhina, while Danny, Ben, and Jesse ordered Hoegaarden beers that came in tumbler glasses bigger than their heads. I also had a plate of the Spaghetti neri alla Venizia, or whatever it is that they call the pasta in squid ink that turns your teeth black. It was pretty good. Tastes like squid. And afterwards we stood on the Rialto for a bit and debated with Danny about whether or not it was a good idea for him to jump into a canal.

Saturday,
We woke up and worked our asses off on Giudecca Island in the space they rented for us to work in. The wind was icy and there was a cold rain that whipped the canals up. (what does the water look like, you ask? Well, you've seen lake Erie, right? Yeah, about like that. Particularly on a miserably stormy day) So by the time we got back to the hostel around 6, some prosecco and a hot shower made for a fantastic start to the evening. Then we went out to dinner and tried to get a table for 20 at 'that restaurant that has guacamole', which, of course, we couldn't. But Danny and I hung around after people split out and put our names in for a table for 2. I ordered a bellini while I waited ((which wasn't all that great, but helped to pass the 20 minutes until we got a table)). The guacamole was so so, but the pizza I had, which I chose by asking the waiter che e la tua favorita pizza, had zucchini and parmeggiano and some fantastic salami, and I ate the whole thing, and just generally had a really fantastic time hanging out with Danny.
At 9, we met up with the others and Brian in San Marco's and went looking for the discotecca, which wasn't open yet, so we got bad gelato and I made my first PLD when I decided to stick my hand n the canal because i set it in something gross. It's okay, I washed my hands when we got to the club, and, retrospectively, it was not my P-estLD. The club had a 10 euro cover charge, but that included your first drink, so Sam and I asked the bartender to make us something forte e un po dolce, so she whipped up something with Drambuie, ginger ale, and lemon juice that she gave some silly name to i can no longer remember. Wasn't bad though. reminded me a bit of a margarita.
It was not at this point that I got punched in the face.
No, no. This was the time, for DANCE.
I danced for about 30 seconds with a skeezy Italian boy in a white hoodie, before I let my friends rescue me. I also danced with a lovely Dutch guy named Jens who is possbly the tallest person I've ever met. He had to dance stooped over. swear.
Aaaaand, then I dance with some more people like dory and ben and julie and danny and brian briefly before he turned n for the night but who really remembers it's all a blur.
And then I asked Abigail to punch me in the face.
- Because she and Joya had this thing, and I jumped in on it, and then Danny did too so I punched him, but it wasn't hard enough... and yada yada yada, And so we all walked home at 4 in the morning with Danny still trying to convince me to hit him again.
Sunday was fun.
Okay, that's a lie.
But it was our last class with Brian, and then we had free time, and we decided that we were going to walk around, but Venice is one large crush of tourists on Sunday afternoon, so I ended up buying a sandwich from the Moka Efti Crazy Cafe, where I couldn't help but flirt with the man behind the bar. NO, I mean really. I didn't even really want to be flirting, I just was, and he asked me what Ohio was known for, and I said Corn, and that was that. I went home and went to bed.

Monday we had time to wander before we had to take the 1:20 train to Arezzo, and I decided to just go off by myself, which was the best decision I've made in a long time. I bought myself a mask - an inexpensive one - and I bought L. B. a mask - which fits him perfectly! - and I spoke to the shop keep in Italian and even translated for the Spanish couple that came in. (and by translated, I mean, I realized that they were asking about gold masks, and so I pointed at something gold) And then I bought a Carnevale poster and some more postcards, and I spoke to that woman in Italian too.
On the train ride home, which took forever because it was half an hour late, I ate a pollo and funghi sandwich from a vending machine.
Back home in Arezzo, I have never so anticipated a meal. Riccardo, Mi Piaci.

Jungle Juice

Jungle Juice:
the generic name for a clear, high proof alcohol (typically Everclear) and a cheap red fruit punch, like bargain brand High-C.
In this case, it was two different kinds of red Fanta, and something vile and 95 proof that my roommate (Donna Ward!) bought from the Iper Co-op.
It was a little strong, I won't lie.
I was a little drunk.

My roommate (Donna Ward!) clams that this is because she (Donna Ward!) mixed the drnk for me herself.
I prefer to think that it was the paper parasol she put in it.
Or maybe it was the other 4 glasses of alcohol I consumed Tuesday evening...
Either way, I need to start a new facebook group. I'll call it - I Get Drunk On Tuesday Nights.
- I don't know why I consistently think that it's a good idea.
No - That's a lie. I know exactly why I think it's a good idea...


So it started with a glass of Cupinero after personal training (cheers Grotowski!), and then a sip of Frangelico after dinner, and just a nip of dessert wine - to settle the meal. And then when you show up at a party and someone offers you Everclear and starts pouring the Fanta... it would be impolite to refuse.
So to make a long story short, had my fifth glass at dinner with Ben, who kept company while he ate his late plate since he was so kind as to do the same for me when I returned from London, and, sure it struck me even then as not the best idea, but what's a little jug wine between friends am I right?
So it was that I had what was, in my opinion, rather a lovely conversation before ending the evening in the hallway, with Little bear, reading Baudrilliard in my pajamas, and finding him far more comprehensible with a bit of alcohol in my system. (I would recommend the article, though - "The Finest Consumer Object: The Body" - which is about how our bodes have become commodities, because we have learned to view them as the vessel through which salvation is possible (whereas it used to be the soul) and consequently, we begin to invest in them, both monetarily and physiologically, which leads him the brilliant term "managed narcissism", and also to some interesting thoughts on the movement from the idea of the body as the center of desire and fantasy (both internal, personal) to the body as something which is capable of an appearance of eroticism (external, the appearance of desire or desirability). And, you know, how women particularly are pressured into the cult of beauty, and the idea of salvation through attainable perfection, which, of course, is not actually attainable, and which simply objectifies the feminine body and alienate the woman from her corporeal self... I could go on, but no one here seemed to care, and I doubt you do either. In class, we watched an (admittedly interesting) documentary about women in person (if you're thinking Pam Grier in The Big Doll House, you are sorely and most unfortunately mistaken), and everyone was relievedly vocal in their relief over not having to talk about Baudrilliard's babble.)
And even as I slipped under my double down comforter, my roommate (Donna Ward!) rolled around in the hallway, caught in the fading thrall of the jungle juice and the green glow of the Uscita Sengnale.

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

FREE DUTY!!! (Or, Why Champaign And Ice Cream Should Never Be Separated)


Ah, Ryan Air...

They're like -
The New York City Subway of the sky.

They herd you onto a bus, and then release you at the airplane like a herd of cattle to cram your way onto the converted Boeing 737 and grab whatever seat you can. The seat backs are bright yellow and have the minimal safety instructions pasted at eye level. These include panels prohibiting glasses, earrings, high heels, and false teeth (presumably on the inflatable escape slide?), and detailed instructions for how to open the emergency doors.
Short but practical - Only the essentials...
I don't know whether to be comforted that most of the things they go into on the bigger airlines seems unnecessary, or unsettled by the fact that it feels like this information comes from experience...
They also advertise on the overhead racks. For Bullseye Baggies. "Premium Hard Liquor in a 75ml bag for 5 euro". Buy one, get one free.
...
If I could have caught one of the flight attendants, I would have bought one.
But once we take off, you only catch glimpses of them in passing - surly Irishmen handing out RyanAir magazines on the sly to a random selection of people, pushing the portable bar around and collecting money for cups of water or hotdogs, shuffling your luggage around without asking...
Oh Ryan Air! You couldn't care less if I fly with you, could you?

On the other hand, they get you there on time.
And somehow the turbulence you experence isn't nearly as dsturbing, because your standards are so low at ths point that you can't believe you're still in the air.

But I'm getting ahead of myself...


- So I went to London for the weekend.

It only took me 14 hours to get from the villa to Zoë's flat.
And I did it all in my traveling hat and boots.
((because my life is one giant Grotowski exercise))

But let's get to the point:
(here's a hint - it's in the title)
That's right, my friends,
DUTY FREE.
After perusing the luxury perfumes, I turned to the alcohol,
and lads, it was PLENTIFUL...

In the end, I bought each of us a present.
For Zoe - a bottle of Balsamic Vinegar from Modena. For Me, a bottle of Proseco, and for Catherine, a bottle of Absolut Pear that just made me happy to purchase, despite my aversion to Vodka.

And then I had to carry them.
In my high heeled boots, and my red riding-hood coat, and my felt hat.
At 2am on the streets of London.

The cabdrivers seemed to like it.
The hat was a big hit with that crowd.
Of course, it didn't help me get a cab for the hour that I stood there in front of the Liverpool train station at 1am.

But I made it to Zoe's flat at last, and I didn't even have to go floor to floor calling her name, because she was sitting in the hallway waiting for me, with a jar of peanut butter, some chocolate Digestifs, and a bag of British pancakes.

*Tangent*
So, in England, apparently pancakes come in a bag.
They're FANTASTIC.
I'm not kidding.
I flirted briefly with the idea of buying a suitcase just so that I could take some home with me.
(I can see the homecoming now - "Hey mom and dad! This is my new suitcase, Aaaaaand these are my pancakes.")
*End Tangent*


That being said, Saturday was worth it.

We met Catherine on the street around 10am (I always pictured us meeting this way - we see each other across a crowded street in an exotic locale. You've got on white sneakers, and I'm wearing a hat...) and got all day Tube passes. For lunch I insited that we go to the Hard Rock Cafe for a burger and fries with a chocolate malt that literally cost me $40, and a cheeky spanish waitress named Charo who told us about her trp to Ibiza and probably does very well for herself in tips.
Then we just sat in Hyde Park on a bench.
We took pictures of each other and I made a fuss about the fall and the light.

It was... nice. It was wonderful. It was comfortable and comforting.

I toyed with buying an oil paintng of pirate ships at sunset and finally we made out way back to King's cross and Zoe's flat on Langton Close, stopping at Tesco on the way to pick up yogurt and honey icecream, chocolate, and strawberries for dinner, which we enjoyed with the bottle of Proseco I picked up. Now, Prosecco - a well known type of Italian "vino frizzante", famous for its role in the traditional Italian cocktail, the Bellini - is not, in itself anything that needs to be raved about. The bottle I picked up (8 euro!!! (...yeah, maybe that's it...)) from Villa Sandi was Di Valdobbiadere. Any chance that means 11% alcohol by volume? Because it was. In any case, it was a highly enjoyable champaign. Totally decent. I would describe it, as forte, I think, to borrow a word from the Italians. It was a forte champaigna.
What was amazing, was how Dave got the cork out of the bottle once we'd mangled the thing (it looked like it should pop but heaven help us...!). He used a knife to shave part of it out and then a fork to pry out the rest. I don't want to start shit - but I'ma have to go ahead and say that it officially beats the fork cork screw. Sorry, I just call 'em like I see 'em.

After an evening in at Langton Close, Catherine and I walked back to her recently vacated double (now a single - Thanks Jessica) at Nido and stayed up to talk about... like, getting older, making money, paying for utilities...
It was odd.
And not entirely bad.


...
The return trip only took me about 11 hours. In the airport I bought a mug (yes, I NEEded it) with a map of the London underground that reminds me to Mind The Gap, and a bunch of postcards. I made it back to Termini train station in Rome in time to make the 17:50 train, and fell asleep in the compartment I had to myself, waking to the soft "Buona sera" as the conductor passed through and trying to read city signs as the sun set behind hills that suddenly seem familiar. I got off at Arezzo and the half hour walk back to the villa was like that hike up the stairs in Raymond, and when I walked n the door, there were people there to hug me and food waiting in the mensa.
After a weekend of old friends and my native language,
I found myself glad to be Home,
and excited to be thinking of it that way.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Cupinero 2004 Merlot

This was described to me as a Super Tuscan.
You would (probably) call it a Merlot.

Cupinero is a relatively new vineyard in the region, and they're not very large, but Paolo recommended them highly.
And of course 2004 is a good year...

It was nice.
(not shining praise, I know)

Danny liked it alot. I think it probably needed to breathe for longer then we let it.
It was very dry, but also extremely light for a red wine. Not much bouquet, although that may have more to do with the fact that we didn't let it sit properly beforehand. The color, though - like garnets. Gorgeous. A dark, rich garnet red. And the bottle looks well, I won't lie.

I think I just preferred the Chianti Classico.
(yes, I swear I'll get that name eventually)



And I would just like to say - because I know that Dory thinks differently, that I did not go drunk to cabaret. I had one glass of wine over a period of like 45 minutes.
Leave me alone.

And, yes, Tramonto, if I had to check in with one word,
tonight it would be Resentful.
Because I think it's bullshit when you say that Secret Friends is about "The Craft".


I finally washed my laundry.
I need to hang it up to dry and go to bed, since I'm not going to sleep until I get back from Londra.


Breathe it in, Breathe it out!
((fuck that))

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Need To Fix Something? Well, I've Got A Screwdriver...

Oh - MG.
They make profiterole gelato.

...

No I know. (Deep breathes now)
I was already composing arias to profiterole.

Yo, Fuck 'Il Gelato', I'm officially hoofing it to the Piazza Guido Monaco and "Il Galaxy' for the good stuff from now on.


- But that's really beside the point.
(I didn't even want gelato at 3pm after the gnocchi and PB & J cakes I fashioned out of Ricardo's jam tarts and and some of the Peanut Butter that my (saintly, sweet, no one better) Mother sent in my (enormous, fantastic, envy inducing) carepackage, but when we walked into town, nothing was open, because apparently all of the Italians are sleeping off lunch. Hey, who am I to begrudge them a nationwide nap time? I'm only jealous. And besides, that gave me the opportunity to walk over to the Winery, where I picked out a mid range 2004 red that I'll try later on... How did you use the extra time we got when Lorenza called in sick for our afternoon Italian class? You ... Ah. Yes. You bought alcohol. Yes, yes, I see. - Oh, No! It's not a surprise, no....)


Did I have a point? After that ridiculous parenthetical, it feels more and more like I really didn't have anything better to talk about then that heavenonearthinfrozenform - Profiterole Gelato....
I think I'll name my first child Profiterole....
- Oh, don't worry, I'll spell it Praughphitteroll, or something... It won't be weird.

...



Ah, yes.
Screwdrivers.
(They're in the title, aren't they? You didn't think that was just for shits and giggles, did you? I mean I know YOU did Jason, but there's a logic, I swear... You really don't give me enough credit.)
?

To deconstruct: I suppose the thing that was broken was me - after my second 2 hour movement class of the day, we were hurtin' for certain, and what better way to unwind before dinner then a nice hot shower and a mixed drink? Or three?
Here's my recipe for Screwdrivers:

2 - 4 slugs of Vodka
3 - 5 sloshes of OJ

serve luke warm in a coffee mug


So I put on a nice strapless dress and some pink glittery sneakers (I just love 'dressing' for dinner, don't you? It makes me feel so civilized, even in the most barbaric circumstances.), and stood at my window to talk to the adorable violinist who was passing below me in the last purples of the setting sun on his way to dinner.
After dinner we shaved Nellie's head.
Aaaaannnnd, then I watched The Fountain before bed.


This morning I didn't run.
GO ahead, judge me. I couldn't get out of bed.
(fuck you Grotowski. No, really, FUCK YOU. ...acrobatics of the soul my ass it's just fucking somersaults i hate somersaults and I don't want to rangle tiny chickens any longer...)
And then of course we were hopping around and tapping each other on the collar bone with our toes - BEST thing I've ever done in a movement class, easily, but a lot more down time than we would normally have.

- Have I mentioned that I think that we're wrong about the heart being the seat of love in the body? And why wouldn't I get into that now? ... Yeah. I think it's the collar bone. That's where I feel it. It gets you right on the collar bone. Broken heart? Pfff. Broken Collar Bone. -




... I need to do laundry.
Not that I'm going to get up and do it,
I'm just saying.

...
I better go now.
Quit while I'm ahead.

(2 days)

The Guinness Bar!

Best bar in Arezzo!
And we went, with 2 Irishmen.
(after watching Boondock Saints with them)

Of course, one of them was drinking Coke Lights, but the other had a Guinness or 2 (really more for our sake, I think - he felt a certain obligation to the experience. - He even watched a bit of the old Football they had playing on a big screen.)


I had a Margarita.
It was not magical.
Their White Russians are much better.

Which is why I ordered one of those next.
It was sweet, actually, a friend of mine bought it for me, because he was buying a round for the birthday boy. First drink a guy has ever bought me, even if it was largely because they were trying to get the aforementioned celebrant to drink something and didn't want him to drink alone. But sweet all the same.

On a more exciting note, the bar tender remembered me, and even though I didn't get to talk to him (or, more accurately, bat my eyelashes, order a drink, and say "grazi" alot) he passed me while I was waiting to order at the bar and did a double-take right out of the cartoons. (I like the baaarrrtender...)


And on the way home, as we wound our way the long way around the city wall since the escalators close at 1am, I got to skip down the big hill with the birthday boy, Ben.
Don't laugh!
...it was fun.

You just wish it was you!

Well, it made me think that maybe that's how I want to ring in MY 21st.
Hurtling down a hill at top speed
holding someone's hand
not scared in the least...

Monday, September 24, 2007

And Ye Shall Find What Ye Seek In A Box of Turning Leaf

My Mother is the BEST mother in the WHOLE WORLD.

(peanutbutterchocolatepeanutbutterchocolate)

((shoooooooeeeesss.....)

Friday, September 21, 2007

The Charleston Enoteca

Oh,
'Tis a beautiful thing!

The Charleston Enoteca is THE place to get wine in Tuscany.
No, really. Wine Spectator says so.

((www.enotecacharleston.com))

We had 3 hours off yesterday afternoon, so a friend and I decided to walk down the the Charleston to check it out. This particular Enoteca, which is the Italian word for a wine shop, was recommended by our philosophy professor, and with good reason. A friendly looking (read well lit and well stocked) shop just outside of the walls of Arezzo, it's manned personally by Paolo and Stefano - the owner's son's, who were eager to help us once they divined that we were there to buy and had no idea what we were doing. (we decided to play the look around in confusion until someone comes over to help you game, which worked quite effectively) Paolo saw knew from the start that we didn't speak Italian, although, I countered when he asked, we do, "ma solo un piu".

What proceeded was a very interesting, is occaisionally over-enthusiastically jovial, lecture on Tuscan wines in a mixture of broken English and Italian (which I am really starting to understand). Here's the skinny as we had it from our new best friend Paolo:

The only real Tuscan wine is red wine.
They COULD make white wine.
They don't.

The good years are 2001 (the best of the bunch, a truly fantastic year here), 2004 (which will start to come into its own in a year or two since red wine should be aged for 5 - 10 years before you drink them), and 2006 (which you shouldn't be drinking yet, but which should be great). A 2003 isn't bad, he sad he didn't know about a 2005, but you should NEVER drink a 2002. Terrible year. Too hot, the wines aren't well balanced.

Now, of course, some grapes are more temperamental than others.

You want to drink a 2002 Super Tuscan? Yeah, alright, because the cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes they use in these wines don't do as poorly when it's a bad year.
Now, anything which uses strictly the Sangiovese grape - like the Chianti Classico northern Italy is famous for - NIENTE. Never, he says. I trust Paolo.
(Paolo, by the way, does not like Barolos. He told us this about 8 times, because, he said, when we talked to our philosophy prefessor, if we couldn't remember whch brother we'd talked to, we could say, He doesn't like Barolos and Scott would say PAOLO! Of course, what I remember was Paolo's name, and not whether it was actually the Baolo he dislikes, or in fact the Brunella or Barbaresco.... It was one of the big "B" Tuscan wines, made from the Sangiovese grape... I'm sure he'll tell us again when we go back - this seemed to constitute an extremely funny joke.)

So, after he showed us several bottles (none of which were under 18 euros) I decided on a Super Tuscan called Cupinero - a small and relatively new vineyard, he says, with a 14.5 alcohol content and a purely Merlot grape base for 22 euro. Danny already knew that he wanted a Chianti Classico 2001, and Paolo recommended one (I'll put the name up here when I get it) with a smooth, well balanced flavor, and a mellow honey bouquet for 26 euro.

((God, it was good.))

I wanted to look at something frilly - a dessert wine or some champaign - and Danny wanted to get a bottle of Champaign for our wonderful junior administrator Dory's birthday, so Paolo gave us a quick run down on that.
Basically, Champaign here is only the stuff you get from the Champaign region of France (Andre was no where to be found), and is super expensive - like at least 80 euro. Sparkling wine, on the other hand, is the same thing, but produced in Italy, and you can find a good bottle for 22 (apparently), so we picked out a bottle of Castello Di Brolio, which is a big name here but, even though Paolo doesn't like the big farms, is still good and not too expensive.

Then we asked him if they had any cheese, because, surprisingly to me at least, formaggio is not easy to get here. He only had what they use in the store (which is also a cafe, it appears), and he said he couldn't sell it too us in less than a full wheel.
Well, I mean, Tuscany is known for their pecorino (sheep's cheese), and we were already into all of this...
So we bought a kilo of cheese for another 22 euro.
And that's how we spent 90 euros at the Charleston Enoteca for 2 bottles of wine and some cheese.

Although, Danny asked as we were checking out which cork screw was cheapest, and Stefano (the other brother) gave us each a Castello di Brolio corkscrew for free.

So that pretty much balances things out, right?


I mean, we'll totally be back.



And in the mean time, I'm full of pasta, desert wine, and I'm ready for a nice siesta before we go out for Chinese tonight.

D'Accordo?

Sunday, September 16, 2007

A Note On Light: The Tuscan Country Side at Twilight

A light pink top light (something with some blue in it), which would echo on the sides in something a little bit more saturated) and diffuse and dusky blue front light - maybe something like L199 Regal Blue and L701 Provence. (I don't have my swatch books, but the Lee site has a great feature called the Swatch Ball - check it out http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/products/colours/).

A slightly more golden pink for the key side light and maybe a very slightly greener blue as the fill side.
No back light, but less saturated versions of the side light for the upstage areas.
As the twilight deepens, the pink comes down and we add a highly saturated blue violet top.

Un Aqua, Per Piacere?

Firenze was fun.

And by fun,
I mean we only spent about 4 hours there
and despite my best intentions
I was rather monstrously and nauseatingly hung over.

It's only an hour train ride, I'll go back some other time.

- Or, it's only an hour if you don't get over excited and get off at Frirenze Campo Marta instead of Firenze SMN (Santo Maria Novella). Not that we did that. That would be dumb.
...
Fortunately, you can just just back on the next train. If you sit in one of the back cars, it doesn't even appear that they check your ticket ever.


We didn't have a plan. Or a map.
We got off the train, started walking, and found a restaurant to refresh ourselves at. It was a decent place called Rstorante Pizzeria Lorenzo di Medici with menus complete with english subtitles, although the bathroom was occupied for some time by a woman who appeared to have been taking a bath in the bidet.
I had ravioli with truffle sauce.
And a 3 euro coke light in an uber chic can (everyone in Europe really is thinner, even the fucking diet coke cans),
And a slightly desicated bowl of tiramisu which had clearly been sitting out for a while, but was still pretty good.
Jasmine tried the Cantuccini e Vin Santos (biscotti you dip in Vin Santos), which didn't even want to think about ordering but tried anyway because felt that I needed, for the good of the blog, to be able to make some sort of report on it. I liked it, I think. Not too sweet, it would be nice to enjoy it after a good meal - and who doesn't like dunking their cookies in their drink? No one who can rightly be called a Shunk, that's for sure.

Then we browsed the open air market, where I bought postcards, and stumbled into a plazza with a strange statue a church I don't know the name of, and a group of our friends who had come earlier in the day.
This is when I decided to go home when I heard that some people were leaving on the 7:20 train.

What ensued was a brisk walk through tour of Florence, where I saw the Duomo (stunning, green) and a collection of streets and plazzas I remembered vaguely from my last trip to the city (I then realized that I had been to the very place I was standing 10 years before, which freaked me out - it's still strange to think of having done something or been somewhere a decade ago which I remember with more that that childish haze, although I did feel like the city was alot smaller than I remembered.) We ended up at the Ponte Vecchio at about sunset, which was beautiful, because all of the little jewelry shops were starting to turn the lights in their display cases on as the peachy sun sank lower, leaving pockets of shadow and window of glittering light. (the bathroom at the train station was cool too - we had to pay 70 cents, but it was all golden top light reflecting off of pink marble, and each of the open stalls was lit from above by a neon blue glow... totally worth it.)

The train ride back took a good hour and a half, since we stopped at every town in between, but the country side was beautiful, and the company was pleasant, and I was finally starting to get over my hangover.
Even the walk back through the city and up the hill was not too bad (as long as we weren't walking too fast my head wasn't throbbing), and Nellie and I decided to leave our bags by the side of the road and go up on the aqueduct to look at the stars before bed.

Unfortunately, as Nellie was explaining to me that we had to be quiet because f the people in the house nearby woke up they would call the police, a car pulls up and stops and a man gets our and says something booming in Italian. After a good two minutes of hiding made it clear that he was not going to leave, we got down and walked over in a confusion of "Me despiace" and "no capito, io non so".
Ah, but t seems my Italian lessons are paying off, because it only took a minute or two for me to understand that he had seen our unattended bags and been afraid that they were bombs, and once I caught on and answered that we were in fact "tutto qui", the only ones here, we were both so relieved to have been understood that he shook my hand and wished us a buon cera.

Not so bad, on the whole.
Me Piace

I Like The Baa-aaaarrrr-Tender!

He made us drinks - (to drink) - We drunk 'um - (got drunk) -
And now I think
He thinks
I'm cooooooooo-oool...

Well, Friday night started out well enough....

Maybe I should go back a bit first.

We finished our first week of classes!
Yeay!




It was long.

I think I cried every day.
For any number of reasons.

At least some of them were artistic.

Thursday we had out first cabaret, and I performed with some friends, a piece about 'this life we've chosen' (theater majors in the house, Holla! - You know what I mean. And you can see how I might come out of it bruised if we were doing it right...), which left me considerably sore but generated some really interesting conversation (internal and external). And then dinner with the local white wine I bought at Eurospar. [a Pinot Bianco I can't remember the name of at the moment. It had an interesting flavor - savory almost. I suggested that it tasted a bit like chicken broth, but everyone thought that I was crazy. Very woody, I think, and not at all sweet, but I wouldn't call it dry either really... I have more in the bottle, I'll let you know]. And then two hours of "Tramonto", which translates literally as sunset, although a closer approximation in the English would be something like, "Community meeting that we ritualize in order to increase the chance of tears and the probability of spending all night deciding things like whether or not we should have to make increasingly more extravagant presents to our Secret Friends or walk around feeling like a bad person".

...

I didn't like Tramonto.


So by the time we finished classes on Friday afternoon, we all needed a little release.

it started well enough,
we went into the city around 6pm in jeans and heels to pick up some necessities from the Eurospar. (I bought a dessert wine that was on sale, a mid range Vin Santos to try, and a bottle of Sambuca I thought would be good with the Campari.) We met our movement teacher Brian there (because it's really not that big a city at all) and invited him out for Pizza. We went back to the place we'd eaten at before (No, I still can't remember the name) and I ordered a dark beer called St. Barnardus (for the name and the picture of a happy monk giving you a thumbs up on the blue label. It was 10% alcohol, and, as far as I'm concerned, fairly nondescript, but not bad at all. Similarly, I split a pizza with a friend that we thought sounded like the one we'd gotten last time, which ended up being one of the more traditional variety - meaning no sauce or cheese, just some very thin prosciutto, some fresh slices of tomato, and a bunch of arugala which gave the one the distinct impression that the crust had somehow escaped from the oven and was hiding in a pile of lawn clippings. It was called a Pizza Rustica incase that piqued your intestinal interest.
For all that, it was still great. And after the banana, stacchiatella, and nuttella e pan (best gelato flavor ever) gelato we got from "the good place", I felt fantastic.

Now if only I hadn't had such a strong desire to show off my lovely white halter top...

I did try. I mean, I didn't drink anything at the first bar we went to, but then we hit up the old martini bar, where it's just so pleasant to slip the bar tender a five and pick out something new to try from their posh square menus.

I had a Capirinha again, and Side Car:
Cognac, Cointreau, and lemon juice
Which was not bad, but not as good as the Paladar Havana Side car, which (correct me if I'm wrong) has Tommy Bahamas golden rum, tequila and Cointreau in it (delicious, by the way, I highly recommend it and will post the recipe if I can find it). It's better than a Lemon Drop (not having any vodka in it, and being less sugary since it uses subtly sweet alcohols and real fruit juice instead of sugar water and yellow food coloring. I don't like Vodka drinks, can you tell?)

and, of course, I couldn't let that half a Long Island Iced Tea go to waste - what kind of alcoholist would I be?

So then we decided to try out the local gay bar, Liquid (not Fluid, which for some reason is what I kept calling it) in our search for dance and a good time, but we got side tracked by a bunch of people we know sitting in the Guinness Pub.

That had to be my favorite stop of the evening.
For starters, cute bartender.

Now, I wouldn't have had anything here, but after sitting down at the table we'd noisily claimed by the front window, it became obvious that we were going to stay, and, after all, as I mentioned earlier,
Cute Bartender
So I walked up and ordered a White Russian:
(the official drink of The Dude in The Big Lebowski, this drink has popular appeal and a creamy sweetness to back it up. It's just Vodka (I know, I know, but I was already in my cups, as they say, and this was something I knew would be decent without being difficult to order) and Kaluha poured on the rocks, with a float of cream on top.
But as he was making it, he got out an extra shot glass and poured in something clear which I assumed was some variation on the recipe, but then he handed me the drink, sans shot, and when I gave him the cash for it, he brought over the extra drink and gave it to me. I asked if it was for me to drink and made the universal sign for downing a shot, which he returned with a smile, so I gladly accepted (what kind of guest would I be to turn down such hospitality in a foreign land) and found that a shot of Sambuca goes well a White Russian. Especially, when it's free.

I am so going back there.



We finally made it to Liquid, which turned out to be about the size and shape of a vassar single and a total bust, and I decided that, after some 7 hours of walking around the city in high heels and carrying a good 5 - 10 lbs. of liquor in my purse, it was time time to go home, which I did, to cap off the night in the Limo with some intense emotional conversation (Dory rocks).

If only I hadn't decided that it was only polite for me to drink the glass of wine that someone poured me before I had the chance to say that I was good...

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Things You Might Send Me, If Your Love Was True...

Ahh, yes.

It's time for a new column.
We'll call this one:

THINGS YOU MIGHT SEND ME IF YOUR LOVE WAS TRUE

Today's installment goes like this:

peanut butter
chocolate
a real pillow
some cute flat shoes
peanut butter
my Vassar hoodie
peanut butter
cookies ( - which might be good with some peanut butter...)

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Feeding the Soul: Vin Santos and Bandoneón

To say that it was a religious experience would really be overstating my first encounter with Vin Santo, the Tuscan dessert wine that was recommended to me when I asked about local drinks. It wasn't bad, though, and I could see enjoying a) something I might not have to bend down to take off the shelf (so to speak) or b) in the Tuscan tradition - cantucci e vin santo - which means with some hazelnut biscotti that you dip in the wine to soften it.
The glass that I had came from our friendly neighborhood winery, and so was Vin Santo San Fabiano, bottled personally by our friendly neighborhood Count. (okay, that's probably not true, but it makes for better reading, and there really is a count, apparently, although I haven't personally been inside yet. I've heard he wears a cape. I'll let you know...)
The wine, which is pressed from dried grapes, has the distinct flavor of dried apricots, and its color is something akin to the blush of aforesaid fruit. Not too sweet this one, and a hint of burnt toast that probably compliments those biscotti.

Now the bandoneón, on the other hand, was Moving.

We had a private concert from Helena Rüegg, acclaimed tango bandoneónista. The bandoneón is similar in appearance to the accordion and sounds (as it should) like a portable organ. It is, the soul of the tango. It made me want to get up and dance, fo' sho.

But you know what they say...


I mean,
It Takes Two To Tango.

(yeah, I went there)


((care to dance?))


So aside from some newly embedded bruises (our cabaret piece is going to rock), classes are going pretty well. It's been a long week - 8 hours of classes yesterday culminated in a "Creative Process" class which basically meant Let's All Cry A Lot; while we think about how shitty this life is and how many times you get knocked over and get back up.

afterwards we all needed a drink.

...or they did homework and I needed a drink whatever anyway...

JK, yo, JK.

But in case you're not L-ing O L yet, not to worry:
Because we all ended up in the hallway for our Runway Walk It Off Party.
That's right, I showed up at our movement teacher's door in high heels and a strapless dress to invite him to join.

Just trying to be neighborly.

Monday, September 10, 2007

Wine In A Juice Box

For the kid in all of us!

Tavernello makes red (10.5%) and white (11%) juice boxes in packs of 3 for about 1 Euro.
They're, you know, not bad for boxed wine.

Funny thing though, when you wake up and do a half hour run up and down the Tuscan hills, and then you take a 2 hour walk through said hills, and then you trudge through the vineyards to the local park for an hour and a half soccer game with a couple of the local guys... it don't take much to get you crunk.

In fact, it only takes about 1 of the little Tavernello guys.

And then with another, say, 2 glasses of whatever they put out in a carafe with dinner, I was having more fun than I have in a while.


Good thing I went to bed early, because after my run this morning, we had our first day of movement class with Brian Burroughs (read foxy Irish movement teacher) who kicked out butts physically for 2 hours, and then Voice class with Kevin Crawford where we got our vocal butts kicked and ended with a stirring rendition of The Spirit of the wind will carry me home.

At lunch, I took second helpings of even the peas.
I didn't even like peas.
Until today.

Ah food comas...
And now we see the beauty of the siesta.

Sunday, September 9, 2007

A Note On Light: Midday September Sun On An Olive Grove In Tuscany

The light here is extremely bright and dry, but not hot. It's also a clean white that straddles the line between warm and cool - probably best represented by a very subtle lemony yellow tint - something with low saturation and a fairly high concentration of green (but then again, I'm partial to green...). Directionally, it's top heavy, with an even distribution that results from the light reflected off of the grey green olive leaves. I would ideally include an area to the side of the main acting areas where I could take out the front light and get some of the nice long, thick, navy/black shadows from the cypress trees no Tuscan set would be complete without.
Front light: lemon yellow and white
Top light: White
Side light: lemon and a very subtle gray-green

Saturday, September 8, 2007

Campari

I mean, I like it.

No one else did.

Campari - a distinctively red, Italian aperitif with over 60 secret ingredients, usually consumed with soda and an orange twist, although also an essential part of the Negroni.

As a bitters, Campari lives up to it's reputation. At first taste, a slightly floral sweetness is gone entirely once you swallow, replaced by a strong, bitter after taste. Both it's aroma and the first mellow sweetness have something of cut grass about them, but the whole experience is difficult to describe.

Campari is not for everyone. No one else who tried it liked it. They complained it tasted of gasoline.

But, I could see getting very used to this...

We'll have to see.
I'll keep you updated on my burgeoning affair with this exotic Italian.
I know you're just dying to know more.

Pizza and Beer - The Italian Way

I mean, they do that shit right, yo.
You think pizza and beer, and you think Napoli's and maybe a Bud (don't get me wrong, I love Bud. No really, I actually drink Bud...). Well not here.
The pizzas were fresh - soft bubbly crusts, a little fresh mozzarella, this fantastic spicy grlled zucchini...
And the beers were Belgian. For anyone who's ever tasted Gulden Draak, that means something.

Now, not being a beer drinker, I picked the one that had a pink elephant on the label.
It was called Delirium Nocturnum.
The label on the back said "Strong Beer".
I suppose this would be reffering to it's 8.5% alcohol content.

Not bad over all. t was dark, with a smooth, tangy head of foam, bitter, dark chocolate after taste, and a bouquet that was reminiscent of a cheap red wine.

And again, not being a beer drinker, I'ma go ahead and make pretentious analyses of the beers my friends got, based on the single sip I had of each, okay? Okay.

Leffe Blonde
This strawberry blonde hails from the Abbey of Leffe, where presumably it's brewed by blind, arthritic monks as they practice their throat singing. (Presumably)
It has a light, floral taste that leaves with a lingering sense of the roasted hops.
The alcohol content was 6.6%

Riebedebie
Definitely the best of the bunch ( almost liked this one), Joya picked this out for the Hobo on the front who's wearing red socks and carrying his shoes as he walks away from a night of heavy drinking. I can only assume that this is in some way an allusion to the high 9% alcohol content (also maybe why I liked it so much...).
Another light beer, it was, but with the slightly cloudy cast to it that makes perfect sense when you taste the subtle (damn those monks are good) spices they've added to the light, peachy base.

*Just a side note, the descriptions of these beers come from notes I made with the help of the whole table between sessions of posed "candid" pictures with themes like "Soap Opera", "Christmas Morning", and "Wanton Strumpet". Check facebook for a complete listing, although they are still currently somewhere in the works.


After dinner, it was time to try what everyone really came over here for...
the Gelato.

I, after debating for several minutes at the counter, decided that I couldn't go worse than to pick the three weirdest flavors, and then at least would know. So I got a picolo cono with Fico, Marscapone, and Nutella i Pan. (Fico, for those of you who don't know, is fig). I mean, the nutella was great. Really. And the Fico was alright as a compliment. The marscapone... perhaps was too subtle a flavor for such a bold combination.
In any case, I learned that the good kind of gelato comes in silver tins, and that a girl in a short skirt and black pumps eating the gelato gets a lot of attention.

That should have been the perfect end to the evening, However, it was Jasmine's birthday, and everyone was going out, so I clickity-clacked back to our martini bar where I tried a Gin Fizz and the bartender asked where I was from and murmured something pleasant about Ohio he couldn't possibly have meant when I told him. And then, of course, people wanted to head off to Mr. Bloom's and the Communist bar (no really, I kid you not. You're supposed to be a party member to be able to get in, which apparently gets left by the wayside when it's crowded, but talk about sending off homeland security bells on the way home... "And what were you doing in Italy exactly? Ah, just step right over here for your cavity search please"...)
Thankfully, I came to my senses and went home once we got to the new bar.

A short 30 minutes later, we were back at the cantina, putting on pajamas so that we could head over to the Limonia* (our "24 hour student space" for a late night dish session before bed. I don't think I've laughed that unhesitatingly in a year.

*The Limonia would originally have been the family's Limoncello cellar. It's where we keep our alcohol - in the perfectly temperate WINE CELLAR that's provided for the students' convenience. Yeah, that's right. My program has a student wine cellar. What does yours have?